Riding the Cade's Cove Loop Road

Check another one off my bucket list! I have been wanting to ride the Cade's Cove Loop Road for years, but have just never had the chance. Yesterday, my husband and I got up very early, loaded the bikes, and headed up to the Cove. I was under the impression that the Loop Road was closed to automobiles on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, which is true during the summer months, but I was sadly misinformed yesterday. When we topped the hill on Laurel Creek Road and made our way toward Cade's Cove, we encountered a line of cars, only a few of which were adorned with bike racks. That was my first clue that all might not be as expected.

We arrived a few minutes before 7:30, apparently just a short time before the Park Rangers unlock the gates to both the Loop Road and the Picnic Area. After parking the truck and unloading the bikes, we headed up toward the gate where we were dismayed to see cars streaming through undeterred. We debated not riding, but we had come a long way and gotten up so early, we decided to try it anyway. I knew there were two roads that cut across the Cove to shorten the loop and figured that if the traffic was a problem, we could always take one of those to end our ride early. I was just sure I would be terribly in the way of the cars and would constantly feel like they were pushing me or waiting to get around me, but, oh, was I wrong!

The day broke to clouds and a little mist, but not enough to make the ride uncomfortable. The temperature was about 55 degrees when we got out of the truck. I was pleased with this because the forecast I had checked the night before said the high in Townsend would be 50 degrees on Saturday, so this was already warmer than I had expected. Sugar maples were still ablaze as we made our way through the open fields and shady woodlands of the Cove. Deer were not as prolific as I had seen in the Cove on many other occasions, but we encountered many more turkey than I've ever seen before in any one location. Seems like every turn we made, we'd find a few more turkey. They were definitely traveling in same-sex groups--hens in groups and gobblers in groups. We saw as many as ten gobblers together picking in the open fields very much unlike the wary, skiddish animals they are in less protected areas. It's funny how animals within the Park seem to know that no one can shoot them in their own special paradise.

We did see one majestic buck grazing under a tree near one of the churches along the Cove Loop Road. He seemed to have come out of the woods for the express purpose of posing for photographs on this cool, damp morning. Photographers had flocked to the Cove to capture the last show of color in the Park as the leaves began to fall in preparation for November's rapid approach. They were massed around this buck, cameras and tripods at the ready. He, however, was nonplussed by their presence or the flashes that emanated from those cameras. I've noticed lately that when I'm tired, my camera hand is far from steady, and although I took several pictures of this nice buck, only one of them was clear; the others were blurred by my inability to hold said camera still as my muscles quivered after a long pull up one of the hills interspersed along this road. This photograph is poorly lit, but perhaps you can still get a sense of how beautiful this buck was.

I absolutely love riding my bike, but riding it in the splendor of one of the most beautiful places on Earth clad in her fall colors was a special treat indeed. Although it was a little past peak, there was still enough color to dress the fields in golds and reds as even the native grasses added to the show. The only thing that detracted from this day was the presence of those cars. I thought I would be in their way, but on the contrary, they were in mine! Invariably, when approaching a long hill or steep incline, cars would stop to look at something (and I can't blame them for this!), but it sure made it harder to ride those inclines. There was more than one time when I think I could have ridden up the incline had I been able to begin it with some momentum. Starting from a near stop or a dead stop though, at least for me, makes those long hills next to impossible. However, even walking up those hills just gave us a little more time to slowly enjoy the beauty of the Cove, the quiet of her open fields, and the solitude of her woodlands. I cannot think of a better way to spend a Saturday morning!

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Mt. LeConte Shared and Magnified!

On Wednesday of this past week, I took probably my favorite trip to the summit of Mt. LeConte because I shared that experience with 25 teenagers, many of whom had never hiked at all. LeConte has been one of my favorite spots on Earth for a year and a half now, since I first hiked to the top in May of 2011 via Alum Cave Bluff Trail. I went again this spring with a larger group of ladies this time via the Boulevard Trail. On the first trip, the weather was perfect with crystal clear blue skies and visibility that stretched literally for miles. The second trip was less stellar for a couple of reasons, but was enjoyable nonetheless. This trip, however, I do believe was my very favorite because I shared this special place with my students.

We loaded the bus at 5:30 a.m. in the parking lot of our high school. Believe me, that's early for 16 and 17 year olds! They complained of having to get up so early, but I noticed they were smiling and even a little giddy with excitement. Armed with pillows and blankets in addition to their hiking gear, the kids piled on the bus and promptly went to sleep. We arrived at Sugarlands Nature Center for our final "real" bathroom break a little before 7:00 a.m. At that time, I also divvied up the supplies that I had brought for all of them. I've already mentioned in a previous post that Blue Ridge Mountain Sports in Knoxville, TN donated 44 Clif Bars for the students. Our local Food City donated bananas for everyone to have during a break on the trail. I always find that bananas can give me that little extra shot of energy when I begin to drag a bit. Also, Earth Fare provided 48 bottles of water for us to distribute to the kids. Most of them did not have a water bladder for their packs and I wanted to be sure they carried enough water with them to the top. These supplies were greatly appreciated and made for a much more enjoyable hike for these students.

Once I distributed the supplies and handed out homemade blueberry and/or pumpkin muffins made by a fellow teacher and one of the chaperones as one last bit of nourishment, the bus took us our last little distance up to the trailhead. I was simply thrilled to be ready to head up the trail just after daylight at approximately 7:30 a.m. The kids were so cute getting all their gear on. We talked about expected behaviors and trail etiquette, and then we embarked on what would be an almost perfect day.

The morning was brisk, and most everyone started out in fuzzy fleece jackets, sweatshirts, or even heavier coats. After about a mile it was time for a stop to shed some layers. We were definitely warming up, making gloves and jackets unnecessary. I was really surprised at how quickly we arrived at Arch Rock. We were making good time, but this hike was never supposed to be about speed. I loved overhearing the kids when we would come to a river crossing. They didn't quite know what to think about those footbridges made of a log and one handrail. They crossed tentatively and nervously, but they crossed! At one point along the trail, one student said, "What's that smell?" One of the other chaperones replied, "Nature!" I got a little thrill knowing that this student had never been in the Smokies before and that all of this wonderful natural world that I take for granted was a totally new experience for her. Numerous times that day, students would remark about something beautiful or unexpected and my heart did little flips. It made the 5-mile walk up there almost effortless. The students did a great job. Even though I was in the back with the group of girls who were the slowest hikers, they did not complain. They got tired, and I let them take lots of breaks, but when I told them we needed to get moving again (because we were getting cold), they got up and hit the trail again. They didn't ask me how much further more than maybe 20-30 times. :)

As long as we kept hiking, our temperature was fine even though you could tell it was getting much colder as we gained in elevation. At about 9:00 a.m. we stopped to regroup at Alum Cave Bluff and take a snack break. I wanted to be sure the students stopped long enough to get some good nourishment (the bananas and Clif Bars) and drink plenty of water. If you know teenagers, you know how they will cave in to peer pressure--even the peer pressure to walk faster than they need to without taking breaks. This rest and refuel break was mandatory and it was good to get to see everyone in the group together and assess our condition at the half way point. It appeared that everyone was still in good spirits and most were ready to finish the deed soon after stopping to rest. We didn't stay too long because we were beginning to get cool again, and we were soon making the climb along the rock walls where cables bolted into the mountain walls provided my students with handholds and me with peace of mind.

We had gotten some great photo ops on the cliffs just before the Bluff, but shortly after leaving the Bluff, we ascended literally into the clouds and that's where we remained for the rest of the day. It never did rain on us, but my hair sure looked and felt like it had. It was soaking wet from the condensation within the clouds. I was disappointed that the views were obscured, but the girls in my group were fascinated with the fact that they were INSIDE a cloud!

The mile and a half or so above Alum Cave Bluff is the most difficult part of the hike and some of these kids were struggling a bit at this point. I never really worried about them not being able to make it, and they still weren't complaining. But the breaks became more frequent and once one of them complained of being lightheaded. After another break, this time with some more food and water, she felt better and we continued on. Soon we arrived at the point in the trail where the ecosystem changes dramatically and you just know you are nearing the top. Many of my students said that last part of the forest right before you get to the lodge area was their favorite part of the whole trip.

I have a feeling though, that for most of them, the favorite part was the lodge itself where they could sit by the fire, rest, and drink some of the most delicious hot chocolate found anywhere on the planet! That $3 is the best money I've ever spent, even the third time around! While we were resting and relishing the fact that yes, we had indeed climbed Mt. LeConte, we were met by Tim Line, the man who runs the LeConte Lodge. He had agreed to talk with my students about the precautions that the lodge and the Park Service are taking in light of the hantavirus outbreak in Yosemite, which was (at least in part) the reason we had made this trek. We moved into the "office" area where the shirts are sold. My kids gathered around the fireplace in the center of the room while Tim told us all about the deer mice that are a part of the LeConte experience and what his staff and the Park Service are doing to keep visitors safe. There has never been a case of hantavirus in the Smokies; apparently this is attributed to the moist and humid environment in our area as compared to the dry region in and around Yosemite. This humidity keeps the feces and urine particles from becoming airborne which is how they are transferred to humans. We were also joined by a Park Ranger who apparently made his way up to LeConte just because he knew we were coming to learn about the risks and preventions of hantavirus in the Smokies. He, too, did a marvelous job explaining the Park Service's position and policies relevant to hantavirus here in our own backyard. Both of these gentlemen gave my students plenty to think about and investigate further. They also treated the kids respectfully and took their questions seriously. We also received an email the next day expressing interest in any findings or proposals the students may develop as a result of their investigations and research. After meeting with these two gentlemen, we made our way up the trail a quarter mile or so to the LeConte Shelter so the kids could see what a backcountry shelter looks like considering that they, too, are visited regularly by the deer mice that may be infected by the hantavirus.

These students will continue to work on the scientific research behind our trip to the summit of Mt. LeConte in the coming month, and will put together presentations and proposals to share with the Park Service and perhaps the Friends of the Smokies, but I, and hopefully they, will forever cherish our time on the mountain. I know that this mountain will always hold a special place in my heart because of this experience. Someone once said, "Joy shared is joy magnified." The same thing definitely holds true for this magical mountain.

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